Also in old havana you can find besides the "Palacio de Capitanes Generales" old books, stamps (including stamps of the former Soviet Union), original Cuban paintings or prints, CDs and tapes of Cuban music (Artex stores and Casa de la Musica, both in Havana, are good places to look), Che Guevara T-shirts, lacework and hand-embroidered clothing. Other possibilities include photos of Ernest Hemingway in Cuba and souvenirs featuring images of African-Cuban fetishes. We weren't so impressed with the Afro-Cuban wood carvings and masks we saw at street markets. Most were of poor quality. Whatever you're buying, be aware that bargaining is common in Cuban markets.

U.S. citizens returning from Cuba are subject to stiff government restrictions on the import of Cuban products: If you traveled to Cuba legally, you can bring back a limited amount of goods for personal use. If you traveled there illegally and you re-enter the U.S. with Cuban items, they are subject to seizure. (We don't advocate breaking the law, but if you're an unlicensed visitor and do happen to return to the U.S. with a dozen or so Cuban cigars, we suggest you take the bands off of them before you go through customs. If the stogies aren't easily identifiable as Cuban, officials are less likely to make a fuss.)